Helvetia 65

Purely mechanical movements wound by hand via the crown, which tensions the mainspring to store energy. As the spring unwinds, it drives the gear train at a controlled rate set by the escapement and balance. Typical power reserves range from 38 to 80 hours, requiring daily or near-daily winding to keep the watch running.

Winding the mainspring by turning the crown attached to the stem, transmitting torque through the winding pinion. Patented by Adrien Philippe in 1842, it replaced key winding and remains the standard manual winding method for both pocket watches and wristwatches.

The dominant modern system: pulling the crown out to a setting position engages the hand-setting mechanism. Introduced in the late 19th century and refined into multi-position crowns (date, time, GMT). Used in virtually all modern wristwatches and most 20th-century pocket watches.

The undisputed standard of modern mechanical watchmaking. Through an elegant interplay between escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance, it delivers reliable impulses with the safety of 'draw' to keep the lever locked. Refined since the 18th century, it powers almost every quality mechanical wristwatch made today.

The heart of mechanical timepieces, the balance wheel is an oscillating component that, together with the hairspring, forms a harmonic oscillator regulating the gear train's pace. Its steady back-and-forth motion ensures the even release of energy from the mainspring, governing the watch's accuracy.

The most traditional regulator, consisting of a movable index pointer fitted with two curb pins (or a pin and a boot) that embrace the hairspring. Sliding the index along its scale changes the spring's active length, adjusting the rate. Simple, reliable, and easy to service, it remains the workhorse standard across countless mechanical movements.

The most famous and widely used shock protection system in horology. Invented in 1934 by Georges Braunschweig and Fritz Marti at Universal Escapements (La Chaux-de-Fonds), it employs a lyre-shaped spring holding the jewel setting, allowing it to shift under impact and return to position. Adopted by countless Swiss makers across the 20th century.

It is the most common form that we can find.

A small seconds hand typically located on a sub-dial and is separate from the central hour and minute hands. Originating from early pocket watches where the main balance wheel drove the seconds hand, it offers an elegant way to track the passage of time without crowding the main display. It remains a testimony to the watch's mechanical precision and history.

The heart of the chronograph function, the chronograph second hand provides real-time tracking of elapsed seconds when the chronograph is activated. Usually centrally mounted, its smooth or ticking movement around the dial offers a visual spectacle and allows wearers to measure events with precision up to a second.